I remember the first time I drove into Ho. It was a Friday evening, the sun was bleeding orange over the hills, and I was nursing a grudge against Accra’s traffic. I’d heard people say Ho was “quiet” or “chill,” which in Ghanaian travel-speak usually means “there’s nothing to do.” Let’s be honest, I expected a sleepy little town with a single streetlight and a lot of goats.
I was wrong. Dead wrong.
Ho, the capital of the Volta Region, is one of the most underrated weekend destinations in West Africa. It’s got the cool mountain air that makes you want to actually walk somewhere. It’s got food that will ruin all other fufu for you. And yes, it’s got a church scene that is so electric, so full of life, that even if you’re not religious, you’ll leave feeling like you’ve been spiritually mainlined.
So, pack a light jacket and leave your Accra stress behind. Here are the top reasons to visit Ho this weekend — and the one church you absolutely cannot miss while you’re there.
1. The Air Doesn’t Taste Like Exhaust
This is not a metaphor. The air in Ho is different. It’s crisp. It smells like wet earth and leaves and something floral I still can’t identify. Coming from Accra, where the air feels like breathing through a dirty sock, Ho is a literal breath of fresh air.
I’ve found that most people plan a weekend trip and immediately think “beach.” But here’s the truth: the Volta Region offers something better than sand and salt. It offers climate. The temperature hovers around 25°C most of the year. At night, it drops enough that you actually want a blanket. Not an air conditioner. A blanket. That’s a luxury in Ghana.
Start your Saturday morning by hiking up Mount Gemi or Mount Afadja (slightly further, but worth the drive). Even if you’re not a hiker, the short trek to the top of Mount Gemi gives you a panoramic view of the entire Ho municipality. You’ll see the cathedral spires poking through the canopy, the red rooftops, and the distant blue of the Volta Lake. It’s the kind of view that makes you forget you have emails.
Pro tip: Go at 6 AM. The mist sits in the valleys like a blanket. It’s hauntingly beautiful.
2. The Street Food That Will Break Your Diet
Let’s talk about fufu. I know, I know — every region claims to have the best fufu. But the Volta Region’s fufu is different. It’s made from pure cassava and plantain, pounded until it’s so smooth it feels like eating a cloud. The soup? Fetri detsi (palm nut soup) or abunuabe (groundnut soup). And the meat — smoked fish or bushmeat — has a flavor that’s deep, smoky, and completely addictive.
But the real secret? Akple with okro stew. This is the Ewe staple. Akple is a stiff cornmeal dough, and it’s an acquired taste. But paired with a slimy, spicy okro stew and crab, it becomes a religious experience. I’ve found that most tourists skip this because it looks “weird.” Don’t be that person.
Also, stop at the Ho Central Market around 10 AM and grab some keta school boys (fried dough balls) and fresh coconut water. You’ll spend less than 20 cedis and eat like a king.
3. The Volta Region’s Hidden “Eco” Gems
Here’s what most people miss: Ho is a gateway to some of the most stunning natural sites in Ghana, all within a 30-45 minute drive.
- Wli Waterfalls — The highest waterfall in West Africa. Yes, you read that right. It’s a 40-minute drive from Ho. The hike through the forest is lush, full of butterflies and monkeys. The waterfall itself is a two-tiered monster. You can swim in the pool at the bottom. The water is cold enough to make you scream, but you’ll feel reborn.
- Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary — Ever been kissed by a monkey? No? Go here. The village has protected mona monkeys for generations. The monkeys are so used to humans that they’ll climb on your shoulders, steal your banana, and pose for selfies. It’s charming, ethical, and deeply weird.
- Kente Weaving in Agotime — About 25 minutes from Ho, you can watch master weavers create kente cloth on hand looms. The patterns tell stories. The colors are alive. And you can buy a strip directly from the weaver for half the price you’d pay in Accra.
4. The People Are Genuinely Warm (Not Just “Polite”)
There’s a difference between being polite and being warm. In Accra, people are polite because they have to be. In Ho, people are warm because that’s just how they are.
I remember sitting at a chop bar called Mama Esther’s near the Ho Polytechnic. I was struggling with my akple — it kept falling apart on my spoon. A woman sitting next to me, a complete stranger, leaned over and said, “Roll it like this,” and showed me the technique. Then she laughed and said, “You Accra people always struggle with real food.”
That’s the vibe. You’re not a tourist. You’re a guest.
And this warmth extends to everything. Taxi drivers will give you a mini history lesson on the way to your hotel. Market women will insist you taste their gari before you buy. The hospitality is not transactional. It’s relational.
5. The Best Church to Attend in Ho (And Why It Matters)
Now, I know some of you clicked this article for the church recommendation. And I’m not going to let you down.
Ho is often called the “Cathedral Town” because of the massive Ho Cathedral (Sacred Heart Cathedral) that dominates the skyline. Built in the 1930s by German missionaries, it’s a stunning piece of architecture — white walls, tall arches, a bell tower that rings every Sunday like a heartbeat.
But here’s the truth: If you want a church experience that will make your soul hum, skip the cathedral on Sunday morning. Go to The Lord’s Pentecostal Church – Ho Central Assembly.
I know, I know — it sounds like a generic Pentecostal church. But trust me. This is different.
The worship is raw. The choir doesn’t just sing — they wail. The drums are not background noise; they are the heartbeat of the service. The pastor, Rev. Dr. Wisdom K. Agbeko, preaches in a mix of Ewe and English that somehow hits every emotional register. The congregation doesn’t just sit — they dance, they clap, they shout, they cry.
I’ve attended churches in Accra where the service felt like a corporate event. This? This feels like the early church in the Book of Acts. There’s a sense that something supernatural is happening. People are healed. Prophecies are given. You will see grown men weeping and grandmothers dancing with the joy of a child.
Service times: Typically 7:00 AM (Ewe service) and 9:00 AM (English service). Go to the English service unless you speak fluent Ewe. But even if you go to the Ewe service, the music transcends language.
Why this matters: Travel is not just about seeing new places. It’s about experiencing new ways of being human. And worship in Ho is a masterclass in abandonment — letting go of your inhibitions, your ego, your phone, and just being present with a community in joy.
Even if you’re not religious, sit in the back. Close your eyes. Let the drums wash over you. You’ll leave feeling lighter. I guarantee it.
6. The “Slow Life” Is Not a Cliché — It’s Real Here
We talk about “slow living” like it’s a luxury brand. But in Ho, it’s just life.
There’s no rush hour. People walk slowly. Conversations take time. When you buy something, you don’t just pay and leave — you exchange pleasantries, ask about someone’s family, comment on the weather. It’s not inefficient. It’s human.
I spent one Sunday afternoon sitting on the veranda of the Chances Hotel (my go-to spot for a decent cold beer and a view of the town), watching the clouds roll over the mountains. No Wi-Fi. No notifications. Just the sound of birds and distant laughter from a wedding party.
That, to me, is the real reason to visit Ho this weekend. Not the waterfalls. Not the food. Not the church. But the chance to remember what it feels like to not be in a hurry.
Final thought: We spend so much of our lives optimizing — for productivity, for efficiency, for the next thing. Ho doesn’t care about any of that. Ho just is. And if you let it, it will teach you something you didn’t know you were missing.
So go. This weekend. Drive the three hours from Accra. Eat the akple. Climb the mountain. Let a monkey steal your banana. And on Sunday morning, let the drums of the Lord’s Pentecostal Church shake something loose in your chest.
You’ll come back different.