I remember my first weekend in Ho, Volta Region like it was yesterday. I rolled into town on a Friday evening, exhausted from the chaotic Accra traffic, and fully expected to just sleep, eat some fufu, and head back. I was wrong. Dead wrong. By Sunday afternoon, I had fallen in love with a city that feels like a secret the rest of Ghana hasn’t quite discovered yet. And the church I stumbled into? Let’s just say it changed how I see worship entirely.
If you’re sitting at home right now, scrolling through your phone, wondering if you should actually pack a bag and drive east this weekend — stop wondering. Ho is calling your name. I’ll tell you exactly why you should go, and more importantly, I’ll share the one church you absolutely must attend while you’re there. Because let’s be honest: no trip to the Volta Region is complete without experiencing the spiritual heartbeat of the people.
Why Ho Hits Different Than Any Other Weekend Getaway
Let’s get one thing straight: I love Accra. I really do. But Accra is a city that never stops screaming at you. The noise, the traffic, the constant hustle — it’s exhausting. Ho is the opposite. It’s a city that whispers. And that whisper is exactly what your soul needs right now.
Here’s what most people miss: Ho isn’t just a stopover on the way to the Volta Lake or the Wli Waterfalls. It’s a destination in its own right. The city sits on rolling hills, giving it this serene, almost meditative vibe. You know how some places make you feel like you can finally breathe? That’s Ho.
I’ve found that the best way to experience a city is on foot. And Ho is perfect for that. Start your Saturday morning at the Ho Municipal Market — it’s chaotic in the best way, with vendors selling everything from fresh garden eggs to handwoven kente cloth. The smell of roasting plantains mixes with the earthy scent of the hills. You’ll hear Ewe being spoken all around you, and even if you don’t understand a word, the melody of the language will make you smile.
But here’s the secret sauce: the people. I’ve traveled to every region in Ghana, and I’ll say this without hesitation — the people of Ho are some of the warmest, most genuine souls you’ll ever meet. They don’t treat you like a tourist. They treat you like a guest. And in a world that’s increasingly transactional, that’s rare gold.
The Hidden Gems You Can’t Miss (And Most Tourists Overlook)
You’ve probably heard about the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary or the Wli Waterfalls. Yes, go see them. They’re amazing. But if you only have a weekend, I’d suggest diving deeper into Ho itself.
Here are three things you absolutely cannot skip:
- The Volta Regional Museum — This place is tiny but mighty. It houses artifacts that tell the story of the Ewe people, from colonial resistance to traditional craftsmanship. I spent two hours here and could have spent two more. The curator is a retired teacher who will tell you stories that aren’t in any guidebook.
- Mount Gemi — Yes, it’s a hike. Yes, you’ll sweat. But the view from the top? Worth every drop. You can see the entire city of Ho spread out below, with the Volta Lake glinting in the distance. Go early in the morning, around 5:30 AM. The sunrise is a spiritual experience.
- The Local Kelewele Joints — I’m not talking about the fancy restaurants. I’m talking about the small wooden stalls near the main lorry station where aunties fry plantains in big metal pans. Order a plate with groundnuts and a cold Coke. That’s real Volta cuisine.
The Best Church to Attend — And Why It’s Not What You Think
Now, let’s talk about Sunday morning. You didn’t think I’d forget, did you?
I’ve attended churches in every region of Ghana — from the loud Pentecostal services in Kumasi to the quiet Anglican cathedrals in Cape Coast. But the church I’m about to recommend is different. It’s not the biggest. It’s not the most famous. But it is, hands down, the most spiritually authentic experience you’ll have in Ho.
The church is the Evangelical Presbyterian Church (EP Church) at Ho Bankoe. I know, I know — you’re probably thinking, “Albert, an EP church? Isn’t that the quiet, formal one?” And yes, that’s the reputation. But here’s the surprise: the Bankoe congregation has completely transformed their worship style.
Let me paint the picture for you. The church building is over 100 years old — a beautiful colonial-era structure with high ceilings and wooden pews that creak when you sit down. The stained glass windows catch the morning light and cast colors across the congregation. It feels ancient. It feels sacred.
But then the service starts. And the drums begin.
Yes, drums. The EP Church Bankoe has embraced a worship style that blends traditional Ewe rhythms with contemporary gospel. The choir doesn’t just sing — they dance. The congregation doesn’t just sit — they clap, sway, and shout “Amen” with a fervor that makes you forget you’re in a 100-year-old colonial building.
I’ll never forget my first time there. The sermon was in Ewe, but the pastor had an interpreter for non-speakers. He preached on the story of Ruth — about loyalty, about stepping into the unknown, about trusting God when the path isn’t clear. Halfway through, I felt tears streaming down my face. I’m not an emotional person. But something about the combination of that ancient building, the drums, and the genuine faith of the people broke something open in me.
Why this church? Because it’s not performative. In many churches, you feel like you’re watching a show. Here, you feel like you’re participating in something real. The offering isn’t rushed. The prayers aren’t scripted. And the fellowship after service? People will invite you to their homes for fufu and groundnut soup before you can even say “thank you.”
If you want the exact address: it’s on Bankoe Road, right near the old post office. Service starts at 9:00 AM sharp. Get there by 8:45 to get a good seat — it fills up fast.
The Food You Must Eat Before You Leave
Let’s be real: no trip to any region in Ghana is complete without the food. And the Volta Region has some of the most underrated dishes in the country.
Fufu with palm nut soup is the obvious choice. But here’s what I’d actually recommend: go for akple with okro stew. Akple is a cornmeal-based dough that’s lighter than fufu, and when paired with a slippery, spicy okro stew with crab or fish, it’s a flavor explosion. Most locals will tell you that’s the real Volta comfort food.
Also, don’t sleep on abolo. It’s a steamed rice cake that’s slightly sweet and fluffy. Eat it with ground pepper sauce and fried fish. I ate this for breakfast every single day I was in Ho.
For the best experience, head to Mama’s Kitchen near the Ho Polytechnic. It’s a small chop bar with plastic chairs and a blue awning. Mama herself will come out to take your order. She doesn’t have a menu — she’ll just tell you what she cooked that day. Trust her. She knows what she’s doing.
The Weekend Itinerary That Actually Works
I’m a planner. I can’t help it. So here’s a full weekend schedule that I’ve tested and perfected over multiple trips. Feel free to steal it.
Friday Evening:
- Arrive in Ho, check into your hotel (I recommend Chances Hotel or the Volta Serene Hotel — both are comfortable and central)
- Grab dinner at Mama’s Kitchen or Coconut Grove Restaurant
- Take a slow walk around the city center. The night air is cool and the streets are quiet.
- 5:30 AM: Hike Mount Gemi for sunrise
- 8:00 AM: Breakfast at your hotel or a local spot (try the abolo)
- 10:00 AM: Visit the Volta Regional Museum
- 12:00 PM: Lunch at a local chop bar (akple with okro stew)
- 2:00 PM: Explore the Ho Municipal Market
- 4:00 PM: Rest or visit the Ho Cathedral for some quiet reflection
- 7:00 PM: Dinner and maybe some live music at The Republic Bar
- 8:45 AM: Head to EP Church Bankoe
- 9:00 AM - 11:00 AM: Worship service
- 11:30 AM: Post-service fellowship (expect to be invited to lunch)
- 2:00 PM: Depart for Accra or continue exploring
Why This Weekend Could Change You
I don’t say this lightly. I’ve been to Ho a dozen times now, and every single visit leaves me different. There’s something about the combination of the hills, the people, the food, and the worship that recalibrates your soul.
Here’s the truth: we spend so much of our lives chasing the next big thing — the next promotion, the next vacation, the next Instagram post. But the real magic is in the small, intentional moments. The sunrise on Mount Gemi. The taste of fresh akple. The sound of drums in a century-old church. The handshake of a stranger who becomes a friend.
If you go to Ho this weekend, don’t just see the sights. Experience the place. Let it talk to you. Let it teach you something about slowing down, about community, about faith that isn’t polished but is real.
And yes, go to that church. I promise you, you won’t leave the same.
So what are you waiting for? Pack your bag. Fill up your tank. And head east. Ho is waiting.