I remember the first time I drove into Ho. It was a Friday evening, the sky painted in that deep West African orange, and the air smelled like roasted plantains and something spicy I couldn’t name. I was tired, hungry, and honestly a little skeptical. Everyone told me to go to the coast or the mountains. But Ho? The Volta Region capital? It felt like the quiet cousin nobody talks about at family gatherings.
I was wrong. Dead wrong.
Within 48 hours, I had eaten my body weight in akple and fried tilapia, danced to borborbor until my shoes gave up, and stumbled into a church service that made me question every Sunday morning I’d ever slept through. That weekend changed how I see travel in Ghana. And I’m betting it can do the same for you.
So here’s the deal: I’m going to give you the top reasons to visit Ho this weekend, and then – because I’m a food blogger who also happens to love a good spiritual vibe – I’ll tell you the best church to attend while you’re there. No fluff. Just real talk from someone who’s done the legwork.
The Food Scene in Ho Is a Hidden Gem – And I’m Not Talking About Waakye
Let’s get this straight: Accra has great food. Kumasi has legendary food. But Ho? Ho has soul food in the truest sense of the word. I’m not saying you won’t find your standard jollof or fufu – you will. But what makes Ho special is the local Volta specialties that most tourists never even hear about.
*First up: Akple with fried tilapia and pepper. I know, I know – you’ve had tilapia before. But not like this. The fish in Ho comes straight from the Volta Lake, and the women who fry it have been perfecting their craft for decades. The skin is crackling crispy, the flesh is flaky and sweet, and the pepper sauce? Let’s just say I cried a little. In a good way.
Second: Fetri Detsi (palm nut soup). This is the dish that made me fall in love with Ewe cuisine. It’s rich, earthy, and slightly tangy from fermented palm nuts. Served with akple or banku, it’s a meal that hugs you from the inside. I had mine at a small chop bar near the central market – no name, just a woman named Mama Ama who runs the place with her daughters.
Third: Aborbi. This is a street food that’s basically fried dough balls, but don’t let the simplicity fool you. They’re light, slightly sweet, and perfect for dipping in groundnut soup or just eating plain with a cold drink. You’ll find them everywhere, but the best ones come from the vendors near the Ho Municipal Assembly roundabout.
Pro tip: Visit the Ho Central Market on Saturday morning. That’s where the real action is. You’ll see women pounding akple in massive wooden mortars, smell the smoke from charcoal grills, and hear the sound of fresh plantains sizzling. It’s chaotic, overwhelming, and absolutely magical.
Why Ho Is the Perfect Weekend Escape (And Why You’re Overthinking It)
Let’s be honest: most people spend their weekends doing the same thing. Church, sleep, maybe a trip to the mall if you’re feeling adventurous. But Ho offers something different – a genuine break from routine without the hassle of a long drive.
From Accra, it’s about 3-4 hours by car or bus. The road is good now – no more pothole nightmares. You can leave Friday afternoon, be in Ho by evening, and have a full Saturday and Sunday to explore.
Here’s what most people miss: Ho is not just a transit town. It’s not a place you pass through on your way to Wli Falls or the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary. It has its own rhythm, its own charm. The people are warm, the pace is slow, and the food is honest.
Three things you must do in Ho besides eat:
- Visit the Volta Regional Museum – It’s small but packed with history. You’ll learn about the Ewe people, the trans-Atlantic slave trade, and the role of the Volta Region in Ghana’s independence. Takes about an hour.
- Hike Mount Gemi – It’s a short drive from town, and the view from the top is worth every drop of sweat. You can see the whole city and the Volta Lake in the distance.
- Take a boat ride on the Volta Lake – There are local operators who’ll take you out for a few cedis. Go at sunset. I’m not kidding.
The Best Church to Attend in Ho: More Than Just a Service
Now, let’s talk about Sunday. Because if you’re visiting Ho for the weekend, you cannot – and I mean cannot – skip church. I’m not even particularly religious, but the church experience in the Volta Region is something else entirely.
The best church to attend in Ho is the Evangelical Presbyterian Church, E.P. Church, Ho Bankoe. Yes, I know there are dozens of churches in Ho. But trust me on this one.
Why EP Church Ho Bankoe?
First, the architecture. The building is old – built in the early 1900s by German missionaries. It has that colonial-era charm with high ceilings, wooden pews, and stained glass windows that catch the morning light. It feels like stepping back in time.
Second, the music. The choir at EP Church Ho Bankoe is legendary. They sing in Ewe, English, and sometimes even German hymns from the old days. The harmonies are tight, the drums are powerful, and the dancing is infectious. I’ve seen visitors cry during the service – not from sadness, but from the sheer beauty of it.
Third, the sermon. The pastor, Rev. Dr. Emmanuel K. Amuzu, is a scholar and a storyteller. He weaves history, theology, and everyday life into messages that hit home. I attended a service where he talked about akple and patience – yes, really – and I’ve never forgotten it.
Service times: Sunday at 8:00 AM and 10:30 AM. Go to the 8:00 AM service if you want the full Ewe experience. The 10:30 AM service is more bilingual.
What to wear: Smart casual is fine. Men in shirts and trousers, women in dresses or skirts. Don’t wear shorts or slippers – it’s a sign of respect.
One more thing: After the service, there’s usually a small fellowship with sobolo (hibiscus drink) and bofrot (fried dough). It’s the perfect way to end your weekend.
How to Blend Church, Food, and Adventure in One Weekend
Here’s my perfect weekend itinerary for Ho. I’ve refined it over three visits, and it works like a charm.
Friday evening: Arrive in Ho. Check into your hotel (I recommend the Chances Hotel or Volta Hotel – both clean, safe, and central). Drop your bags, then head to Mama Ama’s chop bar near the market for akple and tilapia. End the night with a walk around the city center – it’s quiet and safe.
Saturday morning: Wake up early. Go to the Ho Central Market for breakfast – fresh kenkey with fried fish or aboboi (beans) with gari. Then explore the stalls. Buy some dzomi (local honey) or kente cloth if you’re feeling fancy.
Saturday afternoon: Hike Mount Gemi or visit the Volta Regional Museum. Have lunch at The Lord’s Garden Restaurant – they do an incredible fufu with groundnut soup.
Saturday evening: Take a boat ride on the Volta Lake at sunset. Then head to Eli’s Place for grilled tilapia and banku. Grab a cold Club beer and watch the stars.
Sunday morning: Attend EP Church Ho Bankoe at 8:00 AM. Stay for the fellowship afterward. Then have a late breakfast at Sankofa Café – their tea and bread with egg stew is simple but perfect.
Sunday afternoon: Visit the Tafi Atome Monkey Sanctuary (30 minutes from Ho) or just relax before heading back to Accra.
What most people miss: The Akatsi Market on Saturday – it’s about 45 minutes from Ho but worth the drive. You’ll find amazing gari and coconut oil.
Why This Weekend Will Change How You See Ghana
I’ve traveled to all 16 regions of Ghana. I’ve eaten street food in Tamale, attended festivals in Kumasi, and watched sunsets in Ada. But Ho? Ho is different.
It’s not trying to impress you. That’s its charm. The food is honest, the people are real, and the church services are raw and beautiful. You don’t come to Ho for Instagram backdrops – you come for an experience that sticks with you.
The best part? You don’t need a big budget. My weekend in Ho cost me less than 500 cedis including transport, food, accommodation, and church offering. That’s a steal for what you get.
So here’s my challenge to you: Next weekend, skip the usual. Go to Ho. Eat the akple. Climb the mountain. Sing in the church. Let yourself be surprised.
And when you come back, tell me I was right. I’ll be waiting for your message.
Now, if you’ll excuse me, I need to go find some aboboi* for dinner. My mouth is watering just writing this.
